Covid cases are declining and face masks are coming off. As a result, color cosmetics sales are rebounding around the world. No surprise, then, that formulators are rolling new collections faster than ever.

The US, China, Japan, UK, South Korea and Germany are the six biggest color cosmetic markets in the world, according to Euromonitor International. But from 2016 to 2021, China was the only one of them to post significant gains—sales soared 130% to top $10 billion. During that time, US sales grew just 0.4%. In the other countries, color cosmetics sales actually declined, according to Euromonitor International. In Brazil, the seventh largest color cosmetics market, sales fell 9.8% to just under $1.7 billion. During the next five-year period (2021-2026), Euromonitor International analysts expect Brazilian sales to grow just 5.5%. That’s well below the global growth of 21.5%.

L´Oréal Groupe is the No. 1 makeup company in the world with a  21% of value share. In Brazil, domestic companies Boticário Group and Natura &Co lead the way with 18.2% and 17.4% shares, respectively, according to Euromonitor.

While gains in Brazil are small, observers insist there is much for which to be thankful. According to the Brazilian Personal Care and Cosmetics Association (ABIHPEC), the personal care segment performed well during the first quarter of 2022, thanks to the adoption of hygiene habits practices acquired as a result of the pandemic.

The hair care category grew 10% in value and the soap category increased 4%. But the highlight was the makeup category, which jumped 18%. Multifunctional makeup sales were even better, surging 71%. This positive performance is a reflection of a consumer who is more aware of what she buys, since multifunctional makeup delivers several benefits and features in a single product—benefits such as sun protection, hydration and coverage.

The prospect of an improving cosmetics market makes brand managers more willing to invest in launches. In May, for instance, Kylie Jenner’s makeup brand debuted in Brazil via an exclusive agreement between Coty and Sephora. Jenner has approximately 327 million followers on Instagram. Brazilians are among the three most present on her profile, trailing only the US and UK.

Boticário’s Hidragloss delivers the wet effect trend, without being sticky.

In April, Vult, a cruelty-free and vegan brand that belongs to Boticario Group, introduced Hidragloss, a lip gloss that is said to deliver the wet effect trend, without being sticky, along with super hydration for up to 24 hours. The formula contains a blend of vitamins E and F, in addition to hyaluronic acid, grape and sunflower seed oils. It is available in bronze, ruby and pink shades.

Following the trend of multifunctional makeup and treatment, Boticário expanded Make B. Hyaluronic. MBH debuted in 2019 with a foundation combining UV blockers (SPF 70) and hyaluronic acid. Three months ago, the line expanded with Make B. Hyaluronic Compact Powder and the Make B. Hyaluronic Facial Primer. The powder has an ultra-fine formula and a natural semi-matte finish. It promises to leave skin smoother and more uniform, disguising expression lines and pores. It also has SPF 20 and protects against blue light. The primer contains vectorized hyaluronic acid to penetrate deeper into skin, according to O Boticário. The long-lasting formula also has a light texture that absorbs quickly and a “filling action” to reduce lines and wrinkles.

In recognition of the diversity of Brazilian skin tones, in April, Avon (Natura &Co) launched more than 20 foundation shades. Avon made the move after its 2020 study, conducted with 1,000 brown and black women, found that almost 70% of them were not completely satisfied with the products offered for their skin type. Worse, 46% gave up on the purchase because they could not find products that matched their skin tone.

Natura’s Esmalte Faces collection is available in a variety of shades.

Brands continue to invest in eye-enhancing products. After all, for nearly two years, masks obscured all but the wearer’s eyes. Lash extensions became more popular and now, even with covid cases declining, the trend continues. 

According to Grand View Research, the false eyelash market will grow 6.0% a year through 2025. Today’s innovative, lash-enhancing products enable consumers to apply false eyelashes without glue or adhesives. At the same time, consumers want products that enhance eyelash health. That’s prompted the rollout of sophisticated serums, as well as multitasking products with multiple functions such as pigmented eyeliners that nourish and visibly improve lashes at the same time.

Last month, Boticário launched Make B. 4K Panoramic eyelash mask. The formula includes biokeratin, which protects the strands through protein replacement. A double-effect brush has 1000 bristles that reach even the toughest strands. The mask is said to promote 1000% more volume, 600% more definition and 10% stronger strands.​

In May, Avon launched Legendary Extension Lash Mask that promises to deliver a “home-made hair extension effect.” The product promises to create lashes that are 50% longer, three times more voluminous and more defined. Its exclusive XtraLong FX technology forms a layer around each strand, sealing and promoting elongation through the extension of strands, while the ProLong applicator has a narrow and conical shape, which is said to provide precision and definition to lashes. It also promises resistance to moisture and heat, without smudging or fading.

Regarding nail polish, data from Euromonitor confirms Brazil as No. 2 market, only trailing the US. Despite that prominent position, nail polish sales still declined 5.3% from 2016 to 2021. But the category is starting to claw its way back. Euromonitor International analysts predict the Brazilian market will grow 7%, during the five-year period 2021-2026. That’s below global growth predictions of 8.6%. South Korea is expected to drive the global nail enamel market, with sales jumping nearly 47%.

Natura takes the DIY approach to the next level with 10 shades that run the gamut from simple to sophisticated. Available under the Natura Faces banner, the formulas impart long-lasting coverage, dry fast and retain shine. The collection  pays homage to cities around the world, with names like Rosa Brasília, Pink Rio, Azul La Paz, Marrom Nude SP, Verde Canberra, Preto London, Lilac Ciudad de México, Rosa Quito, Rosa Nude Buenos Aires and Rosa Montevideo.

The Vult Mood of the Day collection was inspired by chromotherapy, which focuses on the body’s energies to provide well-being. The collection includes five shades: Green, for peace, health and abundance; Blue, reduce stress, anxiety, induces relaxation and sleep; Coral, energy, satisfaction, regeneration; Red, strength and courage; and Pink, beauty and love.

Nail polish that can reduce stress? Mood of the Day may not deliver on its promises, but marketers have to be pleased with the renewed emphasis on color cosmetics.

Daniela Ferreira
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Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in the cosmetic market. She has a master’s degree in fashion from the University of São Paulo (USP). The study presented in the thesis, integrated product launching in fashion and perfume, mainly comprising marketing studies related to brand, product and consumer behavior. At present, she is lecturer on marketing issues. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities. 

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